India!

The 31 Hour Journey...

When I awoke that final morning in Malaysia, I had no idea what manifested ahead in the form of travel. The modes of transportation I would find myself on awaiting the next chapter in a long day of travel. The faces and kind souls that would assist a confused backpacker out on a limb, without the proper maps. I am still mystified at what the body is capable of and will attempt to recreate the exact path and modes of transportation used to finally arrive to Varkala Beach, India.

It was 8am when I departed Pangkor, Malaysia. I took a taxi for 10 Ringgit to the Jetty station. I then boarded a 40 minute ferry ride through the fishing passages and arrived to Lumut 30 minutes before my bus left for Kuala Lumpur. The bus took exactly 4 hours, leaving plenty of time to relax at an internet cafe before departing for the airport. I took a taxi to the Sentral train station where I boarded a 30 minute train arriving to Kuala Lumpur airport 2 hours before my flight to Bangalore, India. The flight was 3 hours in total and with a timely question, I met Raj, a student pilot flying home to Bangalore. Raj suggested I purchase a plane ticket to Cochin, a 1.5 hour ride in the direction I needed to travel. I had recalled my sister naming a different city called Trivandrum that was closer to Varkala Beach where she'd be staying. The next flight to either destination was at 6am and I had arrived at 12am. I braved the night at the Bangalore Airport unaware no-one is allowed into the terminal until half past 4am. Hard cement and hundreds of people in the streets made it difficult rest or even close my eyes. I purchased a ticket to Cochin since it was cheaper and shortly after spotted a map of South India. Cochin was at least 4 hours away from where I needed to go... I asked the gal at the travel counter if I could switch and pay the difference. With confusion & frustration she fumbled her papers and after a few clicks of the mouse told me to come back at 4am. I waited patiently and approached just as I was told and she still couldn't help me. I went back at 5am, another blank stare. I was fed up and decided I was meant to fly to Cochin. I vaguely remember the ride, the sandwich I ate stuffed with egg and the voice of an American Indian man arguing over his cell phone just before the flight departed. I spotted him at baggage claim and asked if he knew how I could get to Varkala Beach. He laughed when I asked since it was still quite far, but said he would help me by asking around in Hindi. Rajesh wrote some long city names in row on a piece of paper, the advice given by a taxi driver. He said to jump in his taxi and he'd drop me off at the bus station. We exchanged stories and I found out this was his first trip back to India in 20 years and he was here to visit his Grandmother. The taxi stopped and I jumped out. I waved back at Rajesh as he screamed "don't worry Fadi, India is safe!" Stares began filling the station, all eyes on this precariously looking dark fellow with two backpacks. I approached several people asking for directions and advice. No-one could understand me. I began walking and talking... "Varkala, Trivandrum, which bus, can you help me, do you speak English"? Nothing! I was finally dragged by the arm and was guided onto a bus. I asked "how long is the ride, which stop is mine & when do I get off"? His reply "Driver, driver". What??!! The doors closed and the entire bus stared me down. My head hurt, but I had a window seat. The Conductor was collecting Rupees from the passengers and approached me asking where I was going. I said "not sure" and handed him 10 Rupees. He stood confused. I said "Varkala" and his eyes lifted staying OOOH.. 49 Rupees. I gladly paid ($1 dollar = 40 Rupees) and asked the name of my stop and how long it would take. "Alleppey" he replied and then what sounded like 3 hours. 3 hours! I looked at my ticket. It said Alappuzha. That didn't sound like Alleppey. Seriously Fadi, where is your map?! I sat and sat, the door opening and closing, the conductor holding it with a string. The bus filled to capacity passing city after city , stop after stop. In and out of consciousness, I tried to take in each moment, each scene we passed, each second of the experience. Finally arriving I disembarked only to relive the same feeling as before, only this time a few other Westerners joined my confusion. I was told where the next bus would leave from and that it would take another 3 hours. My stomach rumbled and I thought of my last airline meal at 7am . The bus was packed. Only one-seat for my me and my bags, which turned to be a womans only seat. I gave up my seat and then stood, finally sitting in the aisle on my pack for some cushion. A couple from Vancouver BC accompanied my ride, their Lonely Planet assuring me I was heading in the right direction.

That bus finally dropped me in a city that was 15 kilometers passed Varkala. The Conductor and I exchanged several words, neither of us understanding each other. I finally figured that I would still need to take one final bus into Varkala and this was where it left from. I thanked him and walked off. It was 3pm and I was starving. I spotted some bananas and as I paid heard the voices of two Austrians asking if I'd like to share a Rickshaw into Varkala. I gladly boarded my first of many Rickshaws having the driver drop me at the resort where Tami's yoga retreat would be held. I would surprise her and Jodi as they were sitting on beach chairs, drinking pineapple juice when I arrived, EXCEPT they hadn't arrived yet. 2 hours later, hugs and kisses and laughter all around.